If you’re in Bonaire, perhaps the best wreck dive you can do is that of the Hilma Hooker which is a cargo ship used for drug smuggling, sunk just off the shore resting on the sea bed in 90 feet of water completely intact. The ship itself is a spectacular dive site, and even more interesting background story of how the ship got there.
The Hilma Hooker was a 236 foot long cargo vessel and was built in Holland in 1951. The ship was passing by Bonaire in 1984 when it encountered some rudder problems and was towed to the Bonaire Pier for assistance. Customs and authorities immediately had the ship searched when the captain could not provide the proper papers, and they discovered 25,000 pounds of marijuana hidden between false bulkheads onboard. The drugs were confiscated and the ship remained tied to the pier for months while the authorities tried to track down the owner of the vessel.
As the ship was evidence in a legal case against the owners of the vessel for drug trafficking, the vessel could not be touched despite several pleas and pettitions by divers to have the ship sunk as a dive attraction. After many months of being tied to the pier with no maintenance, it’s weak hull began to have some minor leaks and take on water. In September 1984, the authorities fearing that it would sink, consulted local divers and the Tourist Bureau and towed the Hilma Hooker to permanent anchorage just off the shore where if the ship would sink, then there would be minimal affect to ship’s navigating the reef and coral damage.
The Ship eventually sunk in early September 1984 and came to a rest at 90 feet of water falling sideways on to her starboard side. Divers immediately flocked to the wreck, which unfortunately was never made diver friendly as it wasn’t intentionally sunk. Local dive operators got together and made the wreck safe for recreational divers, by cutting the doors, breaking cables and drilling holes in the vessel to allow the air to escape.
The location of the wreck makes this dive easily accessible from the shore and requires 5-6 minutes of swimming toward the buoys first before descending to the wreck’s hull which is just 60 feet below the surface. Visibility is supposedly incredible throughout the year and a large variety of fish and larger barracuda have made the wreck their home.
Beginners can remain at 60 feet near the Hull of the wreck, and intermediate divers can explore the open passageways at 70 feet or so. Wreck penetration is reserved only for the very experienced divers, owing to the depths involved and condition of the wreck itself. The ship has several dangerous areas such as the engine rooms and large open cargo holds where visibility is poor and floating debris still poses a risk to divers. Divers planning to explore the deeper sections of the Hilma will need dive lights, and Nitrox Divers can use EAN32 Nitrox mixes which are available at the island.
Overall the Hilma Hooker is a must do dive for anyone visiting the divers paradise of Bonaire. Watch out for your air and bottom time, as the minutes fly like seconds once down there exploring this massive ship, and be prepared for the reasonably long surface swim.
