Repair Facility

Our Irvine dive center located in southern California is a fully equipped full service repair facility where our trained technicians perform equipment maintenance, repair, and assembly.  All of our scuba equipment technicians are also certified scuba diving instructors with years of field experience.

All equipment is fully assembled by a factory trained certified scuba instructor before you receive it.  Unlike other dive centers (even possibly your own local dive store) where you may find anyone, even possibly an uncertified diver, assembling your equipment.

At Scuba.com a scuba instructor assembles everything and all you need to do is add air and water. 

25 Step Regulator Repair Process

A scuba regulator is a complex piece of life-support equipment.  It represents a considerable amount of investment and value. Over the life of your regulator, contaminates from sand, salt, and chlorine can corrode your regulator, affecting performance and reliability. That’s why it is necessary to have your gear serviced by a certified repair facility. Let Scuba.com service your regulator.

1. The regulator is inspected by our technician to determine the cost of repair.  This way we can contact the customer before proceeding if it looks like the regulator may exceed the value of a new one.
2. The first stage of the regulator is disassembled.
3. All metal parts are placed in the ultra sonic cleaner, with a mild acid solution for cleaning.
4. All plastic/rubber and silicone parts are washed and then treated with a silicone spray.
5. Metal parts are removed, washed in a neutralizing solution, dried, and then polished.
6. All parts then go through an inspection process.
7. The new parts are checked.
8. The parts to be replaced vary depending on the manufacturer, but all O-rings and filters are replaced.  The High Pressure Seat Diaphragm may also be replaced.
9. The regulator is then assembled.
10. The second stages are then disassembled.
11. All metal parts and hose fittings are placed in the ultra sonic cleaner.
12. All plastic parts are washed and treated with silicone.
13. All parts of the second stage are inspected.
14. All new parts are inspected.
15. The mouthpiece is inspected and inhalation and exhalation diaphragms are carefully checked.
16. The body is checked for cracks.
17. The second stages are assembled.
18. The regulator is now tested on the flow bench.
19. The first stage is adjusted to the manufacturer's spec on IP.
20. The second stage is adjusted to the manufacturer's spec on breathing and exhaling resistance.
21. After all checks and adjustments, the regulator is left fully pressurized for 1 hour to make sure there are no leaks or IP creep.
22. Paperwork is filled out for the customer to show the test results and what was done.
23. Paperwork is filled out for manufacturer's warranty.

24. If your regulator is not under warranty, all parts replaced will be returned to you. If your regulator is under warranty, all warranted parts will be replaced and returned to the manufacturer at no cost to you.
25. When your equipment is returned to you, all you need to do is add air, water, and fun!

Repair Prices (LABOR ONLY)*

* A shipping and handling fee will be added for shipping to your home Please Click Here For Shipping Info. Please remember to include all warranty and billing (credit card) information, including your telephone number. If warranty information is not included, or warranty is no longer valid, there is an additional charge for parts.

For questions regarding your repair, please call (800) 34-SCUBA.

Regulators - After each day of diving, the regulator must be cleaned, inspected and prepared for the next use or for storage. As soon as the regulator is removed from the SCUBA cylinder, reinstall the dust cap over the regulator inlet port. This cap is normally attached to the regulator yoke and therefore has been under water. Be sure to blow out the water in this cap before securing it over the inlet port. Ensure that the O-ring is in place inside the dust cap. As soon as possible after diving, the regulator must be soaked in warm (not over 120 degrees) tap water, for a short period of time, to remove salt and mineral deposits. The preferred method is to attach the regulator to a SCUBA cylinder, open the cylinder valve and thoroughly soak both the first and second stage regulators. Pay particular attention to directing water into the mainspring cavity of the first stage regulator, the second stage mouthpiece, and the holes in the second stage boxtop.  Depress the purge button several times while the regulator is submerged in water. If no SCUBA tank is available, follow the above procedure, but be very careful NOT to depress the purge button, or leave the dust cap off when the regulator is submerged in water. Failure to do this will result in water entering both regulator stages, which could result in internal corrosion. Shake dry and wipe the regulator's exterior with a clean cloth. Store the regulator in a cool, dry place with a large loop in the hoses. Do not store in a small regulator bag, as this will damage the hoses.
Buoyancy Compensators Internal Care - In a salt water environment, it is extremely important to flush all the salt out of the vest before it dries and forms rock salt. The rock salt will cut the bladder to shreds in a very short period of time. The vest should be rinsed internally with warm water after each day of diving. Depress the oral inflator button and allow warm water to flow into the vest until it is about 1/3 full. Grip the vest by the top with one hand and the bottom with the other allowing water to accumulate on one side of the vest only. Gather all the straps and the oral inflator hose in one hand and move the vest from side to side allowing the water to travel rapidly from one end of the vest to the other. Then transfer the water to the other side and repeat procedure. Next, gather all the water to the oral inflator side of the drain valve. Open the valve and allow the water to flow out. Before all the water is drained, taste it. If salt is present or the water is not clear, drain and repeat the rinsing procedure. External Care - Rinse the exterior thoroughly in warm water, paying particular attention to push button valves and the oral inflator, and make certain they are operating freely. With the bladder bag vest, rinse the zipper while moving the slide back and forth about 2" otherwise it may freeze shut with salt corrosion. Spray it with silicone after it dries. Spray the outside of the power inflator hose with silicone. This will help prevent the hose from deteriorating. (Be careful to avoid spraying silicone on plastic parts).
Underwater Cameras - Before each day of diving, inspect O-ring(s) for cuts, tears, dirt or any damage. Clean all O-ring(s) then lubricate with a very light coating of the manufacture recommended type of O-ring grease. Replace any O-ring(s) if damaged. Latch and inspect all compartment doors. Replace all worn or damaged parts. At the end of each day of diving, all underwater camera equipment must be soaked in fresh water to remove salt deposits. Keep everything sealed while rising. Never use detergents, cleaners, solvents or chemicals to clean your camera equipment. The mask bucket on a boat is full of detergent – DO NOT USE THE MASK BUCKET TO RINSE YOUR PHOTO EQUIPMENT. Let the water drain from all of your camera equipment and wipe with a soft dry towel (such as a chamois) until dry. Be sure that you and your camera equipment are dry before opening any doors. Always keep the compartment cover O-ring clean, dry and free from obstructions such as sand, lint or salt crystals. For prolonged storage remove all batteries and insert fresh "Moisture Muncher" desiccant capsules.
Knives - All stainless steel knives will show some signs of rust due to their high carbon content (carbon creates tensile strength). After each use, rinse well with fresh water and dry outside of its sheath. Coat with a light layer of oil or silicone.
Wet Suits - After your dive, the wet suit should be washed thoroughly. A bathtub or large trash barrel can be used for washing the suit. Use wetsuit cleaner/conditioner (preferred) or warm water with a mild detergent. Push the suit up and down in the tub for about five minutes with all zippers open. After washing, all soap must be rinsed out. If your suit has an odor that soap cannot remove, use liquid sink guard (preferred) or a half a cup of baking soda in warm water and stir in well. Push the suit up and down occasionally and after about a half hour of soaking, rinse thoroughly (DO NOT put your suit in a washing machine.) If you are going to dry your suit on hangers, it is extremely important that you use an extra wide hanger. If narrow or wood hangers are used, the suit will be damaged due to excessive creasing. After the suit has dried, the zipper should be lubricated with zipper wax.
Wetsuit Alteration - If you do not have a perfect, off the rack fit, do not feel alone. Many people need to have minor alterations done to their wet suit to achieve that "custom" fit feel. Here are the names of three companies whose services we recommend:
M & B Wetsuits 4414 Village Road, Long Beach (562) 422-3493 / Ask for Don	Sundance Apparel 5423 Lemona Ave., Van Nuys (818) 787-1288 / Ask for Jean	Sea Me Repair 4352 Poplar Street, San Diego (619) 563-9033 / Ask for Karen	Express Wetsuits 638 Camino de los Mares Ste 130-230, San Clemente (949) 584-9122 / Ask for Barbara